Luang Prabang

Crossing the confluence of the Mekong & Nam Kan

Luang means Capital in Lao, and Luang Prabang was the former capital of Laos until Vientiane became the capital under the French late in the 19th century. Luang Prabang wears it’s

Inside Wat Xieng Thong Buddas

French architecture and orderly gardens like a grand old lady.  In addition it has World Heritage status for it’s Buddhist heritage including over 30 temples.

 

So it’s an interesting place. But we felt a bit guilty enjoying it because it didn’t feel like Laos: cleaner streets with gutters and footpaths; shops with lots of European food choices (bread!); traffic organisation (Laos style) including large vehicles being banned in the centre etc.  Of course just a couple of ks down the road the real Laos returns with all the fumes and noise it can muster.

 

Buddhism and monasteries are still core to the people of the town and one of the most moving sights is before dawn every day, when hundreds of saffron clad monks walk the streets in single files, silent except for chanting blessings as they accept alms from the townsfolk. Women sit and some men stand on the footpaths with big containers of sticky rice (or other food) and place some in each Monk’s bowl as they file past.

Early morning Alms

Waiting in line!

Some, in fact many from rural temples, are only 12 or 14 years old, still tiny in stature. By becoming a monk they can continue with schooling that otherwise their parents couldn’t afford. We have met several men who were monks for their teenage years. It is a disciplined life for a kid.

 

We visited a couple of the temples, poor compared to Thailand where a lot of new money has flowed in recent years, but perhaps because of that less Hollywood-ish, although still vibrant with colour and art work on every available space.

 

Royal Palace Temple.

Amazing relief carvings.

The former royal palace is also the home of many important buddhist and animist artifacts as well as a wealth of gold and jewell encrusted regalia.

 

Underneath this though is the story of war. Laos is still so poor largely because of wars, and in particular the horror inflicted on it by the USA during the American war in Vietnam (known here as the Secret War, because for seven years America denied it was active in Laos). More bombs were dropped on Laos than were dropped in the whole of WW11, and it is the most heavily cluster-bombed country in the world.  

 

78 million cluster bombs failed to explode, and over a decade of trying to clear away unexploded ordinances has resulted in less than half of one percent being cleared.

 

photo 11

The Unexploded Ordinances Museum made me cry. A truly horrible war crime still being perpetuated on poor villagers who can’t use their land any more, or risk losing limb or life if they do.

 

On a lighter note the living crafts centre, a private company that supports women weavers and craftspeople, was outstanding in what it achieves and the quality of their service and products including an excellent cafe with very happy, loyal and chatty staff.

 

Fried River Weed Sheets with Chilli & Buffalo Skin Jam.

We also loved the massages at Red Cross, who train masseurs to do a great job. And the traditional storytelling accompanied by an ancient musician whose smiley wrinkles wrapped around his Laos bamboo pipes and made beautiful music.

 

Our guesthouse was wonderful (Pongkham Residence for anyone coming this way) and Wan and Janellee have arranged for us to homestay in Janellee’s village on our way south.

 

Altogether an interesting and friendly place.

 

Total 2246k since leaving Bangkok

https://plus.google.com/115746314704803598079/stories/004a8e70-9d63-3225-9b20-12e13b49624114bea83bd36?authkey=COeKyPTFlq6KuAE